Perhaps the best treasure in eastern California's Mojave National Preserve is a pair of tracks that cross the middle of it. This famous trail is the Mojave Road, one of the early routes that brought American pioneers to California. This trail is unique in that for most of this 138 mile stretch it is in much the same condition as the pioneers would have found it, and a lot of the trail passes through country that is virtually unchanged since prehistoric times. The road bisects the Preserve, wandering from waterhole to waterhole, and is mostly a 4-wheel-drive trail. - By Len Wilcox
From Desert Dancing: The California Journal
Well, i've wanted to run this trail for about a year now. I finally said screw it let's just go.. im tired of talking about it! So i nailed down a date... and it couldn't of been any better than on my birthday. A few guys came from the local Landcruiser board and one member of the expedition portal came as well. We had a total of 4 rigs, which was perfect for such a long run. Real quickly, I'd like to thank Brian and Matt for their experience guiding through the trail. Without them, it would have taken Stan, Jeff, Yosh and I considerably longer to complete. We'd spend more time checking our GPS units and starring at maps than running any trails.
Thursday, we headed out from work to stay the night at AVi casino. We figured this would be our best bet if we wanted to be rested the next day for the long haul across the desert the next day. This would be better than driving 240+ miles to get to the trail head. We planned on running the trail from East to West. Back to civilization like most do.
The next morning we were refreshed, excited and ready to get started. We topped off our fuel at the AVI gas station... where yes folks! Gas was cheaper than it was at home! Even in the middle of no where practically!
We aired down and turned on the camera at mile 3 of 130+ just as we passed the needles hwy. Here's a shot of the first few miles of the Mojave Road.
Our first stop was the Petroglyphs site a few miles into the trail. We parked and hiked a few thousand feet, they were extremely close to the trail.. but if you didn't know they were there, you'd fly right past them. Pretty dang cool to visit.
Next we came over a small hill to realize what we were truly in for. The trail seemed to go forever. This was our first great view of what's up ahead. Only 125 more miles!!!
Yosh didn't seem to mind one bit. . .
She even suprised me with a birthday card while we were on the trail!!
Our second stop about an hour out.. Fort Piute. Established in late 1859 by Captain James H. Carleton, 1st Dragoons, this desert post was located near Piute Springs in the foothills of the Mute Mountain range, about 25 miles west of Fort Mojave and 10 miles north of Goffs in San Bernardino County, a few miles west of the California-Nevada border Captain Carleton named the post Fort Beale for Lieutenant Edward F. Beale, U.S. Navy, who, in 1857-59, with his caravan of camels, explored the area for a wagon road. The fort, actually a subpost of Camp Cady, was one of a chain of military stations erected to protect the travel route from San Bernardino across the Mojave Desert to Fort Mojave. While the Piute post was misnomered a "fort," all the others were designated either "redoubt" or "camp," and all were strategically situated near sources of water. During the years of the Civil War, the posts were garrisoned by elements of the California Volunteers and evacuated at the end of the war. But local protests, stressing the critical need for the travel route and increasing mining activity in western Arizona, compelled the reoccupation of the posts in 1866. Upon reoccupation, the post was renamed Fort Piute or Fort Piute Hill, and was usually garrisoned by troops from Camp Cady, California. Fort Piute was abandoned sometime in 1868.
This made a great spot for our first lunch. After lunch we jumped in the rigs for another change in scenery. Doesn't get much better than this. Joshua Trees for miles, miles and miles.
OR a bus. . . dont even ask me how that got there. . ?
We stopped at the money bucket tree. There were 2 budweiser cans and a food can hanging from an old Joshua Tree. I think if you don't throw some spare change in ... you're asking for trouble... but heck that's just me. This was just out on the trail in the middle of no where. Strange.
A few more miles down the trail...we stumble across this old abandoned cabin. Pretty classy huh?
Look, they even have a outdoor entertaining area with a chiminea!
Above: V-notch section coming into Rock Springs wash area
Once in Rock springs we found this.. .
"Like many desert springs, Camp Rock Spring played an important role by providing water, first to the Indians, and later to other desert travelers across the Mojave Trail. The U.S. Army established an outpost at Camp Rock Spring in December 1866, when mining in the region was coming to an end. The outpost was developed to protect travelers, but primarily provided escort riders for the U.S. Mail. Camp Rock Spring was one of the most isolated and comfortless Army posts that ever existed in the history of the West."
Some more beautiful scenery. Some of which doesn't even look like the Mojave Desert..
After traveling past Rock Springs you begin looking down on Kelbaker road and the Kelso Depot area. What a view! The trail goes forever again!
After this stretch, we were ready to take a break for the day. We put in about 7 hours and 70 miles on the 1st day and we were happy with that. That would mean we wouldn't have to press hard the next 2 days. Time to break camp and watch out, here come the Doritos!
The next morning we took our time getting up and rolling. We knew we pressed it hard the day before and today would be a more 'lax drive. Our first stop was Marl Springs about 10 minutes out of camp.
Hmm, wonder if i can drink out of this?
"Marl Springs in the Mojave Desert was first garrisoned by the Army as an outpost by troops from Camps Cady and Rock Spring on October 5. 1867 and was occupied continuously until May 22. 1868, at which time it was abandoned permanently. The number of troops stationed there was usually minuscule. The site apparently was never given official status by the Army except as an informal outpost of Camp Cady. Marl Springs, however, continued to be an important station on the travel route across the Mojave Desert also serving as the site for several trading posts. Many deserted structures and ruins now occupy the site. Crumbling rock walls mark the site of the old Army post that was erected by John Drum and his troops in 1867."
Our next stop was the famous mail box.. where travelers sign, leave spare parts, stickers etc. We signed the book and left a bottle of water for someone that may need it.
About 20 feet away there is a Frog shrine.... once again, dont ask me why.. but we chose to throw in a couple penneys for good luck.
After the mailbox we traveled down the trail further and drove off the trail 5 miles to the Volcanic caves. They were breath taking. I can't explain how amazing they look inside. The picture's don't do justice.
After we hiked in and out of the caves, we were ready for lunch. We took a break and gathered up our things and headed for the next stop... Soda Dry Lake. This is a challenging dry lake to cross. It becomes impassable with rain.. and when we ran it, it was dry. Thank goodness. It was soft even then!
It probably took us a good 10 minutes to get across it... after you get 3/4 across there is a huge rock pile, where people bring rocks from either their home or somewhere else around the trail area to mark your passing.
There is a small monument nested in the rocks that each visitor is privileged to read. You'll have to make it to the rocks to see it. This marks mile 100.7. After Soda Dry Lake... there were some small dunes... we drove through them for a good 30 minutes... it felt like a eternity! I didnt take any photos of this, cause i didnt want to stop!!!!!!!
After the dunes, we came upon the Mojave railroad bridge from the 1800's.. still in use today!
We headed up Afton Canyon Finishing up our 50 mile run this day. There was a small stream running through the middle of the old Mojave trail.
Once driven up Afton canyon and getting the rigs wet.... Brian found the most spectacular camp site i've ever seen. Words cannot describe it. It was quiet, beautiful and away from anyone.
The view from our camping chairs.
It was like heaven on earth.... especially with Filet Mignon and Stan's fresh veggies!
The final day! The trail is pretty much over.. so we are feeling good. We just have to drive out the canyon and make a river crossing. Easy right? Well the trail wanted to make sure to let me know who's still boss!
I drove a little too quickly through the river and got water in my plug/cap/wires and exhaust!!!!!! The Cruiser stalled. Thank goodness we travel with others. I was winched out and dried off.
Once the rig was dried there wasn't a problem any longer... i proceeded to teach myself just how your 'supposed' to cross 4-5 feet deep rivers!!!!!!!! Nice and slow! Create a wave over your hood!
** LESSON LEARNED!**
We ended up thanking the river gods and heading on our way out a 3 mile dirt road to the highway to complete our journey. After over 130 miles of pure dirt... we aired up and headed home dirty, stinky, with grins ear to ear. We were happy we made it and would do it again in a heart beat!