The Highway of the Devil



Reported by many to be one of the most remote places in the United States, this historic route shortcut linked spanish settlements in Mexico to what is now California during the frontier days. It once was a 250 mile route that started down in the Sonoyta area and reached far northwest as Yuma. Many made their way west in search of the Colorado river. History shows us that even as early back as 1540 Captain Melchior Diaz led a expedition through this area in search of a route to the Pacific. El Camino was shorter, cheaper and safer than sailing around the tip of Baja. The route was directed through major water holes for slight chance of survival. Along the trail there are numerous amounts of grave sites.



Today the route remains remote as it was in those days. It runs from Ajo, Az to Yuma Az. You still need to be self contained, with fuel, water and other such necessities. You cannot depend on anyone on this trail. It is one of the most remote places in the United States. It's one of the longest section of dirt roads in the United States also (without pavement crossing). Present times El Camino is home to the Barry Gold Water Bombing Range, Cabeza Prieta Wildlife Refuge, hard core overlanders, illegal aliens crossing the Sonoran desert into the U.S. and of course the Border Patrol.



So, for a few years now, we've been wanting to run this overland route. Last year we tried to run the trail but due to the bighorn sheep the trail would be closed the time we wanted to head out. So we figured we'd wait, prepare.. research some more and head out in the winter. There's no way you'll catch anyone out there in the summer, unless they have a death wish. Temps can rise up to 118 in the summer months easily.

We had a bit of a drive from California, so we drove 75% of the way into Arizona and camped at KOFA wildlife refuge the first night. When leaving our home town, we were leaving a storm behind. After arriving at camp, the sky was clear with stars and we were happy to be there. It was breath taking.




The moon was incredible.


The next morning we woke up and got prepared for the couple hour drive to the trail head. Of course today was Valentine's day and what kind of guy would i be if i didn't get Yosh and Dixie something. To tell you the truth, the Giraffe was for Yosh with her chocolates but Dixie wouldn't have that... she grabbed it with her mouth immediately and claimed it as hers right away.



After grabbing fuel and a permit in Ajo we headed to the trail where we aired down and had a quick lunch. I reset my odometer and hit the throttle. It was finally happening! We were running ECDD!! We'd had waited for a long time for this and today was the day.

The scenery was amazing.


It didn't take too long before we ran into our first Border Patrol truck. They were smoothing out the road. The reason behind this is to see the illegal travelers foot prints in the dirt. It's pretty amazing actually, the agents can actually tell how long ago the group walked through and which direction they were traveling. Many of the "walkers" have a person at the end of the group that will walk backwards and brush the footprints out of the sand.


We came upon these beacons out there in the middle of no where. Some people think it's a waste of tax payers money, some people agree with it. Regardless of how you feel, they're out there and they exist. So basically, if you make it to one of these towers you can push the button and the Border Patrol will come get you. Im sure they have saved many lives.





All along the trail there's signs of people perishing. It's a all too common sign that the desert was not a good place to travel.




We had entered the Cabeza Prieta Wildlife Refuge.



All along the way trail.... every so often, staggered through sandy miles were these sand mats. Usually used for heavy equipment for when they travel in soft conditions. It was interesting driving over them. You had to watch out not to cut your tire open on some of them sticking upwards.



Dixie was wondering if we were ever going to stop?..


Our first nights camp on the trail was going to be at Papago Wells. Papago well is a spot along the route where water can be found. This is of great importance for travelers. At this location there's a windmill that pulls water up from a well and brings it into the tank. It's potable water believe it or not.



The blue flag signifies to "walkers" that there's water in the tank. It can be seen from a long distance away. The flags are put up by a group called Humane Borders. This is controversial, just like the call beacons we saw earlier in the trail.



We made camp for the night and ran into a whole entire group of FJCruisers. We happened to know quite a few of them. They were very nice people and we finished the trail with them. It's always nice to find good, responsible overlanders out there.



It was time to fire up the grill for some appetizers. James cooked up some spicy hot links.





Everyone socialized before dinner.


Dinner was going to be epic. Little did many know, but this was going to turn into a full on Tri Tip competition! Dual grills, dual tri tips and dual bbq experts, Steve and James! Good eats as always!!!





One was dry rubbed, injected, marinated and served dry. The other was marinated and served wet with spicy sauce. One thing they both had in common is that they were killer, that's for sure.



At the end , the vote went to James with his dry injected tri tip.



At the end of the night, we had all agreed that no one lost..... that we all had won.

Passing by the wind mill and water tank again we hit the trail to head west.





Our first stop was a Border Patrol field office in the middle of no where. Apparently the travelocity gnome is waiting to get you a deal on getting sent back to Mexico.



Communications setup to talk across the wide desert.





Diesel tankers and generator trucks for power in the remote area.


The border patrol fleet ready to roll.


Looking around you never know what you'll find laying around out here.





The Sportsmobile would make a super comfy BP vehicle. Plus it blends right in with the desert sand. I could of sworn i snuck up on at least one border patrol truck before they realized who we were.




Crossing through the Pinta Sand dunes.



Entering into the Pinacate Lava Flow.









Quick stop for a group shot.


We proceeded onward to Tule Wells while beautiful cactus and plants surrounded the road at every corner. Saguaro Cactus, Barrel Cactus, Cholla and Ocotillo to name a few. Needless to say, Dixie wasn't allowed to roam freely. Later in the trip she'd get a small spike burr in her paw. She wasn't hurt and it was caught early thankfully.



Some of the trail was fairly rocky. Not the best place to get a sidewall puncture.





We arrived at Tule Wells. Below a casita built by the Luke Air Force Base Civil Engineering Dept



We chose to make this our mid-day lunch spot.





There's another water tank and windmill pump at this location as well. It had plenty water just as the first tank did.



A monument built by Boy Scouts stands up on the nearby hill behind the casita.



Dixie took the chance to run around like a real dog... off the leash


Tule Wells is a major junction for north to Christmas Pass and West to continue on El Camino Del Diablo trail. Half the group decided to run up Christmas pass and check out the view and the other half decided to press on to get a early start at camp that night.

We headed west towards camp. My plan was to get to camp in time to take a nap. For some reason i was exhausted on this trip. Felt drained. I needed to re-charge my batteries.


Climbing through washes at the base of the Tinajas Atlas mountains.



Our camp for the night in complete solitude. I think i had a 15 minute nap, but i thought to myself, "time to get up you can always sleep when your at home!" I wanted to enjoy the area and knew we had to finish the trail in the morning.


Tossed some stuffed chicken breasts on the grill and uncorked the wine. I think we eat better on trips than at home!





Dixie waited patiently for a bite of the chicken.



The group at the fire, we had more wood and friendship than we ever needed. Like that's a bad thing? Everyone got along so well and took to each other like we had been on the trail for years together.



The next morning we awoke to a bit of cloudy weather, but this was our last day so we didn't care if it rained. I made breakfast real quick because i knew it would be a long day to arrive home. I told you we eat good!


Our last stop on the trail was to check out the Tinaja Atlas tanks. These water tanks can hold in upwards of 20,000 gallons if all are full. This is a very important site because this was another major source of water for travelers to survive the trek.






The mountains were stunning, jagged rocks, holes and bowls in the the rock faces. Pictures don't do them justice.



After checking out the tanks, the group split up again. Half left up the main trail route to Wellton and the highway and the other half went over the four wheel drive route and north after. I felt like i was holding up the group a little with our Sportsmobile so we proceeded up the main trail towards the highway. We would have a 6-8 hour drive after just getting off the trail, so that was another reason why we didn't go the other way.

On our way out, we saw this Humvee. Used for practice bombing. After all we were on the Barry Goldwater bombing range.


The trip out was a fast one, we averaged over 40mph on the last section of trail.




We finally reached the end of the range. At this point we would air up, head back on the highway.


Dixie was wondering why the road was so smooth when we hit the highway.


Still picking up the other group on the HAM radio, we pressed on to Yuma for lunch at Cracker Barrel. It was busy as always, but worth the wait. Once done eating we fueled up, cleaned our windshields and headed for home and rain. It would be a tough drive, stuffed bellies and everyone wanting to take a siesta.

But finally, El Camino Del Diablo was finally in the record books. We had finished it and it was quite the adventure. Thanks to all that joined us and thanks to the portal guys that we ran into, you know who you are. It was another great trip!