I recently was asked by Badlands4x4 Training to run support for a group of people that had an appetite for adventure. This time is was a group from Shanghai China. See they own an off road shop overseas and were headed to SEMA, so what better way to arrive in Vegas than to run the Mojave Road on the way? So with some prep and detail work and a long flight to the USA, they were on their way.
The hardest part about this particular trip was that they were flying in with only the luggage they carried on the plane. They were to rent a SUV or two and that was it. We were to handle everything else. From the food, to the tents, to the toilet paper and everything in between. I had agreed to carry plenty of water, cook for the group, and carry all the gear like a pack mule.
Dixie really wanted to go once she saw all the food i was carrying.
The morning of the trip there was slight rain and some beautiful rainbows the whole way out to the high desert.
The trip started by meeting up at Peggie Sues in Yermo CA with Tom from Badlands4x4. The agenda was to brief the group, hand out maps and guides, warn folks about safety issues and get their lunch ready. Lunch consisted of manifold burritos. Each morning the group would take a moment to wrap up Hot Pockets and microwave burritos in foil and place them in a secure location under their hood.
Of course after the briefing we headed to the trail and running it West to East (On the way to Vegas) you run into the Afton river crossing first instead of last.
The second item on the agenda was to air down for the 130+ mile journey across the desert.
Our first stop down through the canyon was the old train cars that are buried down in the wash. It's amazing that these are whole cars. You need to be careful that you don't step in the wrong spot and end up falling down inside one.
Once through Afton we dropped into a side wash where we checked out an old Mining site. It's the Pacific Marble Mine dated back to 1910.
I was advised to stay on the main section of trail since i was a bit longer than the rest of the group. The whole reason behind being support is to arrive at the camps each night no matter what. If i get stuck or can't make it to camp at the end of the day, then there's no point in me even being there.
We then headed off through the Rasor OHV area where the sand starts to suck you in. Momentum here is your friend, especially if you're like me, 10,000 lbs and pulling a fully loaded trailer.
There are plenty of rock cairns along the route if you lose your way. Some more creative than others. This one featured what looked to be a Rancho shock.
Climbing up over Shaw pass. It's a mild rocky climb where way back in 1867 Dr. Shaw was attacked and killed by Indians as he was traveling the route.
After cresting the pass and heading across the flats towards Soda dry lake we spotted a couple muddy rigs.
They informed us that they just made it through Soda Lake and said it took them quite some time along with multiple tries and large tires. We already had planned to bypass it due to the rental rigs with us. There was no way we'd spend a full day trying to cross. If you look at the lake and see how white it is that is usually a tip that its wet. The whiter, the wetter it is under neath. You can see in the above photo in the background how bright it is.
Our rigs would have made it, support and guide.. but we couldn't risk the rental fleet getting stuck to the frame. It wasn't worth it to us.
We broke for lunch. My job was to set out food for the chinese group. Apples, granola bars, chips, sodas, water, and of course the under hood food was on the menu. Everything was provided to them as it should be for a guided run.
After lunch we headed up Rasor Rd to the I-15 highway. We'd roll convoy with headlights on at 45 mph aired down for 2 exits. We'd then exit near Baker and head back down to the trail avoiding Soda dry lake.
Our next stop were the Lava Walls.
They're breath taking and you don't realize how tall they are until you stand next to them.
Next up on the list of stops was the mail box. The mail box is in the middle of nowhere and it's been well taken care of. There's a guest book that everyone signs and it lets the BLM know just how many folks travel through this area.
A small walk off past the mail box is the frog shrine. Sometimes it's there and other times it's not. Who knows why it exists , but people throw coins down for good luck.
We headed off and the views were spectacular, we could see camp for the night.
As tail gunner i was making my way slowly but surely. I'd already ran the trail and experienced it so i just cruised and relaxed all day basically. My job was to work at camp.
Next stop before stopping for the night was Marl Springs.
This was a major source of water and still is today along the route.
You can still see remnants of the old post.
Camp was going to be setup at the base of the Beale Mountains. On the way, one of the drivers ran into this guy. Makes me happy i sleep in a roof top tent. Luckily i didn't see the beast, because i was on my way to camp to get things setup for dinner before the group arrived.
Once at camp the others setup.
The camp kitchen setup and ready to go.
I started the fire to get the steaks on and we prepped the rest of the side dishes.
Tom even broke out two Dutch Ovens and made cobbler. It was great.
Everyone enjoying a nice campfire after a long day.
The cobbler rocked as always. It was spot on.
The next morning we headed out across the desert. I had a little more to pack up then the rest so i volunteered to stick around and knew i'd catch up with them a little later. We were always in contact via our HAM radios.
The guests making their omelettes in a zip lock bag. Cool old boy scout trick.
The first stop was the Mojave Road Plaque near the crossing at Kelso-Cima Rd.
Here's a close up of what it says.
We headed up the grade on the opposite side of the valley towards Cedar Canyon. The views are spectacular from this vantage point. You can see the trail in the background heading up from where we just were.
Small butte in Cedar Canyon.
Next stop was the upper and lower Government holes. These are still great sources of water today also.
Some old pieces of history laying around.
The windmill still operates the pump today.
Tom and the rest the group concurred that this most likely was the cabin of 1925. Or what's left of it. It's the same place where Matt Burts and Bill Robinson had a wild west shoot out.
We headed over to the homestead of Bert G. Smith. Now owned by the park service. At this point, i took the chance to re-stock some of the beverages and moved some water around for the nights dish washing.
After a short break at the homestead we headed over the short trail section to Rock Spring. Rock spring usually doesn't show too much sign of water but its there. Hidden under the granite and canyon floor. This is another one of the linked water holes along the route. The reasons for choosing the route actually. Keeping close to water is important in the desert, obviously.
From this point forward i took one of the vehicles that was 2 wheel drive around the harder section of trail and re-linked back up with the main group. We then headed into the Joshua Tree Forest and Lanfair Valley.
We took lunch halfway through the forest and then afterwards headed up near Caruthers Cyn to view some amazingly preserved petroglyphs. They were in abundance. I hadn't been to this particular location.
We headed back on the trail and came to an important split. Salt Lake city or Arizona?
This was the route to Salt Lake City Utah. They linked off of Mojave road at this point and headed Northeast. It's the El Dorado Trail. It made for a great photo.
After the split in the road, we stopped at the Penny can where i proceeded to replace the new aged gatorade bottle with a real metal can thanks to one of the group members that had it in their trash bag. All was right with the world again and the Mojave gods were happy. Hopefully its rusting nicely out there the way it should be.
We headed through Lanfair valley, twisting and turning and stopping for a couple 10-100's (Bathroom breaks). Our plan was to camp at Piute Gorge just off the trail. However, once arriving at the gorge we found it windy and not able to accommodate such a large group. So we camped at a nearby cattle fence, only used maybe 15-20 years ago for private ranching.
It was time for some relaxation.
I started dinner and we settled in for the night.
The group we were guiding from China decided they wanted to head back to civilization and cut the trip short by one half day. So after dinner we led them out to the highway and they went on their way.
Saying good bye to the group. They were very happy with the adventure.
The next morning was easy because i didn't have to prepare any meals or even clean up anything since the group that i supported left the night before. We headed for Fort Piute up and over the mtn from us.
Once down into the valley and near the AT&T maintenance road, i broke off from the pack and said my goodbyes. Tom and a few others from the original main group were to head over to Ft. Piute then finish the trail to the Colorado river.
I was on my own, and all alone. It was great. Not a soul for miles. Sure beats the regular office.
I talked to Matt and the rest of the folks that headed over to Piute and he sent me these photos as proof they made it unscathed.
Matt arriving at the Colorado river. Mission accomplished.
I want to thank Matt for shooting the photos that help me complete this trip report. Often times im out of the rig shooting hundreds of photos on a trip like this, but on this particular one i was working too much to snap enough photos worthwhile of telling a story. Without him, i wouldn't have this report to remember. So thanks Matt!
Also, If you'd like to read a trip we made back in 2007 with a more historical view on the trail, click this link.
http://www.adventureduo.com/2007/03/mojave-road-2007.html
All photos are by Adventure Duo and Matt Barisic.