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| At this point most people already know why we head out in the back country so much. To escape stress, work, the daily grind and to generally decompress from our nonstop schedule. We go through withdrawals if we don't get away from the smog, traffic or if we can't smell a campfire. To us, the more off the beaten path and remote the better. If there's a chance for us to get stranded for a few weeks than that would be all the more better. We like places where you can't use your cellphone to text, won't see another soul for days and another vehicle for a week. It's especially better if we haven't been to the said place and can spend the time seeing new things. |
For these reasons and more, we chose to head to Havasupai Point on the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. Being one of the oldest and remote locations left on the South Rim you won't find a better place to get-away. There's no tourists, no guard rails and no hot dog stands. Just natures beauty. This is a very un-frequented part of the Grand Canyon that is for sure.
Getting off the beaten path on the Kaibab NF road. It's about 43 miles off-highway to get to camp. The first half isn't too bad, but the section nearing camp is very slow-going and tight with pinion pines.
Havasupai (OR Blue Water People) call the Grand Canyon home and have been for 800 years. They still run 251,000+ acres of the land after fighting for it to be given back in 1975. Today you pay $25.00 to enter and cross the land to get to the magical point as the tribe runs cattle on the landscape.
We were extremely surprised to see someone manning the entry point to the Havasupai Land. Everything i've read online and heard is that there's never anyone there. Regardless, we were happy to pay the fee and head on our way. Interesting side note, they actually want to know when you're in and out and why you are there (camping, hunting, hiking, etc).
The area checkpoint or substation was really run down when we passed through. There's trash and debris everywhere in the immediate area and numerous quads up on blocks with parts scattered nearby.
There office or station. I don't know if the gate keepers are volunteers that come out for the day or spend multiple days at the location.
We continued on our way. Dixie looking onward, sniffing in all the great smells the area had to offer.
At one point you come to a "T" in the road and the road degrades. This section becomes a silty sand bed in the summer and a mud bath/ snow drift in the winter. Very common for this section to become impassable in the Winter months.
The wild flowers were in bloom and we were fortunate enough to be able to photograph some of them.
When passing through the area, make sure to watch for cattle and close any gates that are closed when you approach. Many cattle guards had make-shift gates that were damaged or no longer functional.
There wasn't any shortage of cattle in the area. They were checking Dixie out and trying to figure out what she was. A small black and white cow of some type?
They didn't care that we were driving a 7,000 lbs Landcruiser either. After all, we were guests in their home.
Beautiful country around every corner as we started to approach the old ranger station.
The old remote Pasture Wash Ranger Station for the South Rim built back in 1926. Now in a state of decay, but groups are trying to restore it to it's former glory. Couldn't find information on it's last day in use, but i think it was around 1989.
Needless to say, we didn't travel inside to check it out after reading this make-shift sign. Normally i would, but when i see hantavirus signs these days i pass. Could be just to scare people away, but you just never know and it's just not worth it.
Signage by the NPS. Someone wrote something about being in the snow in 2009 here. Interesting things you find in the middle of no where. Wonder what the story was behind that?
There's a great looking old barn outback. I heard stories of men sleeping in the loft sections way back when and carving their names into the wood beams. Again, we respected the area and didn't travel inside.
Checked for water in this trough, but it was dry the day we were there. Don't know if they had a tower back in the days or if they were on a well. There were a ton of springs in the area.
Old remnants everywhere you looked.
After checking out the Ranger area we proceeded northerly towards the edge of the South Rim and towards the pinion pine forest.
The silt beds were nasty. You didn't want to stop in this area with your windows down.
The trail closed in and became tight with trees. There weren't many places to turn around if you had to, not to mention we were pulling our trailer. We proceeded with caution.
Tight sections here and there. I wouldn't want to bring anything larger than our Landcruiser through here. I think a cab-over camper or any wide vehicle would have a tough time. We had to watch the trailer to make sure we didn't take out part of the skin of the teardrop. I also removed one of my long radio antennas up on the roof rack to prevent damage.
It's not uncommon for the area to have fallen or even human blocked log sections. I don't know what the story is behind people not wanting you to travel these "Open" routes. You can obviously tell this wasn't work of nature. Needless to say, this wasn't a section we were traversing so it wasn't a problem for us.
After about two hours plus off highway we finally arrived at our camp for the night. It was nothing short of jaw-dropping. It definitely met our expectations and then some.
Firing back a cold one after a long day of driving. It doesn't get much better than this.
We enjoyed a nice quiet dinner and watched the sun set. The shadows took over the Grand Canyon with a very dramatic view. It was ever changing.
Night fell and it was a full moon. It was so bright you could still see the vast landscape of the GC no matter where you looked. It was breath-taking. We were truly fortunate to be here.
The moon was so bright, these pictures make it look like the sun was out still. It was not.
Dixie and Yosh enjoying the view. You can see their shadow on the chair. This was taken without a flash. Pretty bright.
Heading for bed for the night, the cloud cover started to take over and keep us cozy.
The next morning we woke up and still baffled at the beauty of the Canyon. I proceeded to enjoy a cup of coffee on the edge. Beats Starbucks any day of the week.
Yosh enjoyed her tea and read her Kindle. Im sure this beats a Barnes and Noble as well.
Dixie, well, was Dixie. Soaking in the sun and taking countless naps. Besides, that's her job.
There's more than one back country campsite on the Havasupai Point. So the next morning we moved. While the Grand Canyon is spectacular no matter where you see it, we wanted to get the most we could out of our trip. So we headed down the trail a bit further. Plus, it's not often you get to see an open site available in this area.
You can define the designated campsites from the NPS branding on the wood trunks here in the area. We had a permit for the area, which you can obtain from the GC station in Flagstaff AZ.
The sites are tight and like i said earlier, i don't know if you could get a camper in. That's what we love about our teardrop and LC combo. We can get to just about anywhere as long as you have experience towing off-highway. We get to places that RV's, Toy Haulers and Diesel Pushers cannot. It took me several attempts to back into this spot, but in the end it was worth it.
And this is why. We were 5 feet from the edge. Very worth the effort.
Make sure your e-brake works. You might want to chalk the wheels to be sure.
Another beautiful day on the South Rim. It just never gets old. You won't want to leave, that is for sure.
Best hammock spot we've had to date. It was hard to take a nap, because you didn't want to close your eyes, for fear you'll miss the beautiful view. We just relaxed and tried to freeze time.
We had plans to hike down into the Havasupai Falls nearby, but after looking at a map it was going to be a 10 mile hike one way. With Dixie and what we had packed for the hiking trip (no overnight gear) we ended up passing. All the reason to come back next time right?
As the day went on we hiked around the edge of the rim and explored the general area. Not a soul in site, just us three. It was incredible.
After a bit, 5 o'clock hit. Talk about a great place to sip an ice cold beer from the fridge. Best porch seat ever.
Dixie skipped the Shock Top and opted for shade and some cold dirt. She was so relaxed she didn't even open her eyes for the photo.
At some point she wised up and wanted on my lap. This is her signature spot. Smart dog.
Temperatures started to drop as we approached dinner hour. The overnight low was down in the mid-thirties. Pretty surprising for September. It was great change of pace from summer and we came prepared for it. Dixie wearing her nit sweater her grandma made her.
For dinner we had soup and pulled pork sandwich. It was perfect. Yosh manned the kitchen and did a terrific job. Another near full moon lit up camp on the second night. Again, incredible. We didn't want the night to end because we had to head home the next day. That's always the hard part.
The next morning we took our time getting out of camp, but still kept a bit of urgency since we had plenty of miles to get home to So-Cal. Again, plenty of the trail was slow-going at first getting off the point.
Heading back across the cattle land, i think someone was watching us.
Alright, maybe not just him. Could it be they wanted us to stay? Or Happy to see us go?
Wondering in and out of different grids of land. You need to pay close attention to where you are and the laws/regulations you must obey by. Again, we had a permit for the area.
Crossing into the Kaibab NF. Sign had a great patina on it.
Long roads back to civilization. The road slowly became better the closer we came to Tusayan.
Making up some serious time on the smooth stuff. Just keep an eye out for other vehicles and animals around blind corners. Be prepared to stop if need be.
Some stretches went as far as the eye could see. We don't have too many forest roads like this in Southern California.
Crossing over the Grand Canyon Railway line tracks still in use today.
We waited a while but never saw a train. It would have been pretty nice to see the old steam engine come blazing by.
After making it back to the town of Tusayan, we fed Dixie, filled out bellies and headed for home. But not before a quick stop to say hello to Smokey the bear.
To break the miles down a bit and give for some rest, we camped on the way out to the GC in the Mojave Preserve. On the way back we pushed as far as we felt necessary and ended up camping near Barstow Ca. It was warm but at least we could enjoy a nice campfire. We pulled in right at sunset after driving all day.
Again with an incredible moon.
The next morning we woke and packed quickly as we were headed straight into work from camp. It wasn't the first time and won't be the last. It was well worth it and we cannot wait to go back. The trip was a great success and we will always remember it. For anyone that has never seen the GC, there's a reason why it's one of the worlds 10 Natural Wonders of the World. I urge you to see it.
If you'd like more information on Havasupai Point, there's several websites out there you can get the information at. Do a quick google search and you'll find most of the info. You will need two things as well. Back country permits issued by the NPS in Flagstaff and you'll need to carry cash with you to pay the passing fee for the Supai land. Also, you don't need a crazy 4-wheel drive, but make sure you go prepared and if you have all-wheel drive that is a major plus. Do not attempt in the Winter.
Until the next adventure, thanks for reading!