Lately, we've been getting involved with our small mountain community in ways such as CERT, Fire Lookout and Search and Rescue. All volunteer activities, but time consuming nonetheless. It also seemed that all the training fell into the same part of the year giving us months of classroom learning and not much back country travel time. Well, all that is mostly over and so it's time to pack up the rig and get out on the dirt.
Going through extreme withdrawals and having the van loaded and ready to go was like a living torture. A couple of weekends we were on track to head out but "things came up" unexpectedly. After a few months, i couldn't take it anymore. We had to go, and where? I didn't care so much. Just somewhere epic and off the beaten path.
Tuweep, or Toroweap as many call the area had been on my bucket list for a while. It's located on the north rim of the Grand Canyon and it's a special place to enjoy without the fuss of all the tourists. So, like always I did my typical research about mileage, road conditions, routes and permits. We'd been nearby in other areas but just never made the 90 miles dirt jaunt to the north rim. Then that was it, i decided we'd head out over Memorial Holiday Weekend come hell or high-water. I figured it was a 50/50 shot that it would either be crowded or with the funky hot/raining weather it would be dead. Either way, we were getting out and i didn't care as long as the wheels were turning.
My goal was to head in from St. George, arrive mid-day at Tuweep/Toroweap and stay for a few days in one spot. Relax, hike, and just enjoy being off the grid for a bit. We'd head out in the evening a day or so before and camp at Red Rock Conservation Area just west of Las Vegas, Nevada.
Arriving in camp for the night we found it strange camping so close to "Sin City". However, we're not huge Vegas fans so seeing the Luxor Casino spotlight from a distance was just fine with us.
The next morning we woke up, lowered the top and headed on our way. After grabbing coffee, breakfast and topping off fuel, we arrived just south of St. George a few hours later ready to air down. The corrugated road to the rim was going to be a long one, but not a tough one. We grabbed a soda and some snacks and proceeded south into the park. Most of the drive is very scenic, ranging from wide open cattle land at low elevation to higher forest, meadow type terrain.
After two plus hours of nonstop dirt, we reached the NP boundary and the Ranger Field Station. An older gentleman walked out, introduced himself as a NPS Volunteer and gave us a map. He also informed us there had been a few people leaving, but mostly all were entering and that there may not be a campsite left. Our Plan B was to leave and head back out to BLM land about 30 miles to the north west if we had too. We also had another plan that we knew someone arriving in the area the same day and whoever made it to camp first would save a spot. Well, let's just say, we got very lucky.
We pulled into the designated camping area as another gentleman ran up to the truck. I stopped immediately as he approached waiving his hands and verbally calling out my name. Baffled, i asked the man "How do you know who I am?" "There aren't any markings on the truck, we're incognito!" The man responds, "Your friend just pulled in, grabbed the last campsite and he's waiting for you" - We couldn't believe it.
They were setup in a well outfitted FJCruiser and had only arrived shortly before we did. Lucky indeed.
Once at our campsite, it started to drizzle a little bit as there had been thunder showers off and on all day. We popped the top and made a sandwich. Enjoyed the view from the truck for a little bit.
There's just something about lava slick rock pockets filled with rain water.
After we had lunch and said our hellos we walked to the edge. Why of course, we didn't want to waste time imagining what it could be like. We had to see for ourselves. After the walk down to the cliffs edge, as always, the Grand Canyon did not disappoint.
The drop off was 3,000 feet straight down of lava run off which is one of the only places in the park you can see it. The lava flow actually stopped the movement of the Colorado more than one dozen times. The volcanic flow in the area is from nearby Vulcan's Throne that erupted 1.5 million years ago. Pretty amazing to think that's even possible.
We headed back to camp and knew we'd see more in the coming days. It didn't take long after for Dixie to find secure spot and settle in for a siesta.
Cocktail hour arrived and the dinner menu was configured. The view from camp didn't suck and it didn't matter which direction you looked as it was all breath taking.
The next morning the morning coffee view was second to none.
Yosh and I took a hike out on the Saddle Horse Loop trail. It was a nice one hour jaunt that took us out to the edge from camp and back. In this shot you can see Yosh way out on the rim in pink.
The hike was nice, but a bit too short. The problem was that Dixie couldn't be left back at camp too long as it was warm. So we opted to head back after the loop and have lunch.
Afterwards i headed back out on a longer several mile hike that went inland on the Tuckup Trail while Yosh and Dixie stayed behind. This trail was a 6 mile out and back. With spectacular scenery around every corner, even the locals come out to play.
Eventually I wrapped around to another point of the Grand Canyon overlook with a view back at camp. You can almost make out the vehicles at camp in this photo below. Just goes to show you how small we really are in life. (top right hand side of photo)
After several days on the rim and enjoying good food, great people and even better views we headed back out through Mount Trumbull. It's 90 miles back out this way to pavement but much more scenic and there's historical stops along the way.
Heading back out from camp takes a bit due to the slow pace and high clearance is recommended due to the lava flow sections you cross over. Exiting camp we actually scraped our hitch coming up a ledge.
Old Farm equipment of yesterday can be seen on the way out.
The Tuweep Ranger Station tucked away nicely. Not the worst place to work if you ask us.
We headed North West for Mt. Trumbull. It's a vast 7,880-acre wilderness area along the Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument. Coming over the pass you could see for miles.
Some of the road is a bit narrow so it's advised to take your time. Also, most don't travel the Trumbull pass in the winter due to snow and mud.
The next stop was the old Trumbull Schoolhouse. I had seen it in fellow travelers reports but never in person so i was somewhat excited to check it out.
From the BLM Website:
For 44 years, the schoolhouse served the community of Mt. Trumbull. Homesteaders arrived in this remote valley about 1917 to farm and raise livestock. The schoolhouse, built in 1918, served not only as a school, but also as a church, dance hall, and town meeting site. Population peaked at 200–250 in the 1930s, when a drier climate forced residents to switch their livelihood from crops to cattle and sheep. The Taylor Grazing Act of 1934 changed the face of ranching on the Arizona Strip as a complex system of permits and regulations precluded use of the range by many newly established homesteaders. People gradually drifted away until the last full-time resident departed in 1984.
As the population around the schoolhouse dwindled, it fell into disrepair. In 1966, its doors closed. In 1990, restoration efforts began and were completed four years later, restoring the schoolhouse to its near original condition. The schoolhouse once again opened its doors to the public. In July 2000, arsonists burned the historic Mount Trumbull schoolhouse. A restoration committee made the decision to build a schoolhouse replica. The restoration was completed in partnership with some of the descendents of the first settlers of Mt. Trumbull, the BLM, and contributions from the public. Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse was re-dedicated on October 13, 2001 and continues to be a symbol of the pioneer spirit of the Arizona Strip.
The schoolhouse doors are never locked, so walk inside to enjoy the photographs and artifacts that capture the life and times of the people whose lives revolved around this structure. Abandoned houses stand empty, along with some houses that are inhabited seasonally. No trespassing is allowed on private lands, but you can get some good photos from the main roads.
Some of the interesting items we found within the old schoolhouse.
After eating lunch at the old school house we headed on our way towards St. George and civilization. Long stretches in farm country was the name of the game. At one point i set the cruise control and we counted 27 cattle guards as we passed by herds of animals and at several points had to slow for them in the road.
Once arriving in St. George we opted to head into the city for supplies and air up. It was a brutal 102 degrees and Dixie was feeling it. Poor girl. The good thing was she found a new friend, so that made it worth it.
After airing back up and letting the pooches rest in the shade, we headed West and on our way towards home. We wanted to break up the drive again but knew the temps anywhere in the desert were going to be a nightmare. We had never been to Valley of Fire outside of Vegas so we opted to head that way. Silly mistake of course. We knew better!!
Entering the park we knew right away why it was a state park and protected. It was gorgeous.
After checking the map of the park and running into the evening we opted to camp in a campground with showers. They were worth every penny and after a quick rinse we were restored for dinner. Even poor Dixie got in the mix. She felt so much better after, Look at that FACE!
With the duo crew refreshed and on our second wind we prepped dinner. Marinated chicken breasts, corn and egg fried rice. Egg beaters work well believe it or not!!!
As the night rolled to a close and temperatures dropped, the chicken and corn slow cooked over the campfire. A perfect way to end a trip.
We enjoyed the evening around the fire watching the shadows on the rocks and then headed for home in the morning. Another great adventure!
