Most of us avid 4-wheelers and off roaders know about Surprise Canyon and the water falls that Jeepers used to be able to drive or "winch" up.. And many of us have written it off due to the closure way back in 2001. But how many have hiked up to the long lost Ghost Town of PC to explore? Well, ever since i started traveling to Death and the Panamint Valleys i wanted to see this great place for myself. Heck i didn't even know it was a normal road up till some time ago. So, lets turn a page and go back in time for a moment and see how Panamint City came about and see how it looks today. Join us as we hike up into the area on foot and spend a day or two in the area exploring...
What started out as a hide out for bandits, turned into a thriving quick success of a city through the find of silver in the area. In 1872, while hiding out from the "Law" William Kennedy, Richard Jacobs and Robert Stewart were doing a little prospecting when they luckily stumbled upon small deposits of silver. They wanted to start working the area, but they had a small problem. They were "wanted" for stealing $12,000 from a Wells Fargo stage coach. That would be about $215,000 in todays money. Quite a bit.
They had to come up with a plan and the story went that they knew that Senator John Jones had been involved with the mining industry for quite some time. The idea was if they could somehow persuade Jones to let them off they would agree to sell them their claim. Jones agreed along with his colleague Senator Stewart and promised amnesty upon repayment of the $12,000 they originally stole. This would be profits from the mine. The senators started in on the area and by 1873 they formed the Panamint Mining District.
By 1874, the town had a population of about 2,000. Its main street was one mile long. They had their own bank, red light district, numerous bars, a brewery, a post office and even their own newspaper.
Photo by Legendsofamerica.com
Because the town was based off outlaws and they were still very much present, it was a dangerous town to live in. Just in its short life there was reported to be at least 50 shootings. The outlaws thought that they could sit around and let all the workers do the mining while they just waited and robbed them later. Well the Senator and the miners were pretty smart. Instead of casting the silver into small bars that can be carried away, they formed huge cannon-like balls that no human man could ever carry away on horseback. Needless to say, the criminals weren't exactly thrilled with that.
It's funny, i read a quote online that said "You don't expect me to feel sorry for you, do you?" - Senator Stewart.
Surprise Valley Mill and Water Company Mill about 1875
By around 1876 the major mines started to deplete and in the same year a flash flood broke out on the canyon washing away much of the town. Most fled town and by 1877 the post office closed.
After that the area was mined off and on for quite some time. The Post Office reopened for a short time, sporadically. It finally closed in 1895 again. The mines were worked till about 1926, then it kind of fell asleep.
This was probably taken in the late 1930's. I think all of these men are from Beatty, Nevada. The two in the middle are EPA or OSHA inspectors. Thanks, John Lisle of Beatty, Nevada Photo Courtesy of Mark Holloway
Then in 1946 the American Silver Corp leased a dozen claims in the area. The company worked on improving Surprise Canyon road and even built a small camp in the area. They worked mostly on Marvel and Hemlock mines but as rumor has it, none was ever shipped. The Corporation filed for bankruptcy in 1948 for obvious reasons.
Lets skip forward 50 plus years and see what its like today.
We parked at Chris Wicht Camp. The one time of the famous Ballarat, California bartender of the same name, burned in September of 2006. It's at the mouth of the canyon trail and makes a perfect base camp.
There's still plenty signs of life of hard work in the area.
We headed out early because the top portion of the canyon towards the city has zero coverage. In Death Valley it can get warm real quick.
Old mine car they used with low clearance, just sitting next to the trail.
After a bit it was time to start climbing the falls.
Some sections were pretty steep.
You never know what you might find laying around these canyons.
After a bit more hiking and pushing our way down the trail through brush we took a break at the 1/3 mark. This was at a location called the "Gratto".
Chris locked and loaded and ready for anything. This was his 13th trip to the City.
Our trusty sherpa "Buddy" relaxing.
This is why it's called the "Gratto"
This area was breath taking and doesn't do it any justice in photos.
After a break, some hydration and a snack we kept on heading on. Even ran into a claim marker or two. Paperwork still inside the tube too!
We hit the last spring before entering into the top section where we'd have no access to water. Now was the time to refill, if you ran out on the next leg of the hike you were done. I filled my camelback and hydroflask.
After passing through the tunnel of love we broke out into the upper canyon with absolutely no coverage.
At this point, i started fading hard.
I wasn't the only one feeling the pain.
Another hour of one leg in front of the other and we start to see signs of life. This is a good thing. Means we're getting closer!
We basically figured that we were doing about one mile per hour.
The Mill stack started to become in view. This meant we had one more mile to go. It was all the inspiration we needed.
We finally made it. I was pretty stoked since i don't hike and this was the first time in my life i've ever worn a pack like this.
You don't realize just how big the stack is until you get up next to it. It's unfortunate, but the smaller stack fell down years ago.
Chris was brave enough to peak inside.
Dave decided he wanted to cook a pizza.
After quickly checking out the area and resting a bit we headed to camp, which i won't divulge where this cabin is but it's known as the "Castle" of "Hippie Cabin". If you're fortunate enough to find it, please leave it cleaner than you found it and respect it.
Buddy didn't mind relaxing, he was beat. This was his 6-7th trip to the city i believe. The dog is awesome.
It was the end of a very long day, we all slept very well.
The next morning we woke up excited to explore the area. After breakfast we headed back out.
Looking over the rock crusher.
A quick glimpse at the "Hilton", where most hikers stay.
Others campout in tents in the center of town. This was said to be old apartments. Before that i don't know what it was.
Plenty of old trucks still around.
The burrows still roam this area quite frequently.
Looking over the city from the south side near the main mines.
Coming out of one of the mines. This one went back pretty far.
Inside the mine, stability beams. Not the best thing to hang out around.
The explosive room. Tucked into rock. The ceiling looked like it was going to give way at any minute inside.
Oldschool Coors can with a push button. First one i've ever seen. Pretty neat. Rumor has it they stopped producing them because people would cut their tongues with them.
Supposedly this is some type of old rain gauge. Or so we've heard.
Dave was crazy enough to walk out on the conveyor belt for the rock crusher. What a nut!
Another little fact i wasn't aware of on the bottom of some cans, they're soldered. This means its pretty old and was used for possibly milk. Interesting what you find, remember to leave it as you found it.
The backside of Shotgun Mary's place.
Time for some more water, up in the well named "water canyon".
Buddy enjoying a little rinse. He rarely ever gets into water like this. Pretty funny, he must have been real hot, or real tired!
Front side of Shotgun Mary's. Apparently she got the name for when people approached her property, she'd come out with a shotgun.
A place to park my rear. Notice the bumper sticker?
Yep, you read it right. Compliments of the guys over at www.panamintvalley.com. Pretty funny.
Pictographs in a rock. Don't know if they're real or not.
Lizards were everywhere.
Well there's a ton more photos of the exploration we did, but i'd rather people find the rest for themselves. After being out all day, we headed back in for a nap and some lunch.
You laugh, but the "Hot Tub Time Machine" rocked after a long day on the trails.
We'd later take a hike on the "after dinner trail" named by Panamint Charlie. A avid explorer/hiker of the area.
Trail runs along a cliff most of the way with scenic views of the townsite and a mine is at the end.
Sun started to set on our final day.
Last night before heading back down and to reality and civilization.
The next morning we flew down the canyon in 3.5 hours. Pretty fast for someone that never hikes i'd say. Took us 5.5 to get up. With muscles sore and legs feeling like jello we made it down unscathed and happy as can be.
There's so much to this trip, but i'd be here typing and uploading for days. Besides, the fun of it is to get out there and see it for yourself. Anyways, i want to thank Chris "Hippie" Johnson, Dave "Lostboy" Wong and Buddy the "Sherpa" dog for the awesome time. It's a hike i will never forget.
Also, huge thanks to my sweetheart Yosh for letting me join this adventure without her. We don't do that very often and she was missed the entire time, along with our pup Dixie that has never missed a trip either.
Thanks for reading everyone, to more exciting adventures!
Photo/Video by David Wong.